The Ancient Grains Issue
The Ancient Grains Issue
Long ago in the Fertile Crescent, as civilization was beginning to form, grains of different shapes, textures, and tastes pushed their way out of the ground. They were farmed, enjoyed, and brought to new locations. As mass-produced hybrid wheat hit the market, they all but disappeared. A resurgence of new farms and a renewed interest has brought these grains back full force. Ancient grains are so named because, unlike today’s common wheat, they have been minimally changed over millennia. In this issue, we explore these grains through profiles of Emmer Farro, Kamut, Einkorn, Buckwheat, Freekah, Oats, Amaranth, Sorghum, Millet, Quinoa, Teff, Spelt, and Rye. Whether a sweet and soft grain well suited to baking, or a nutty, fluffy grain, perfect as the base of a hearty salad, recipes such as “Einkorn Biscuits,” “Buckwheat Crêpes with Nutella,” “Farro Salad with Roasted Squash, Goat Cheese and Toasted Pepitas,” “Maple and Pear Gingerbread Spice Cake,” and others, pay tribute to each grain’s strengths. A story on a farm growing grains in sync with the surrounding wildlife illustrates the natural resilience ancient seeds have. A farmer working with a seed geneticist on breeding-backward speaks to this process in an interview. A warm issue celebrating the variety of grains that have served us since the beginning of agriculture, and the many, delicious ways, we enjoy them.